Metin2 Horse Taming and Mount Guide 2026

Let me be honest: my first attempt at Metin2 horse taming ended with a dead horse, an empty saddle, and a very long walk back to town. I had no feed, no lassos, and no clue. A few years and a lot of Yang later, I can tell you the whole system is far simpler than it looks. This guide is the version of horse taming and mount upgrades I wish someone had handed me on day one.

If you are still learning the basics of the game itself, the community wiki at Metin2 on Wikipedia is a decent starting point. Everything below assumes you already have a character, a bit of Yang, and a map where wild horses spawn.

Catching a Wild Horse

Before you can tame anything, you need a wild horse. They spawn in a handful of open maps, usually the grassy fields near Orc Valley and a few desert areas. You will need two things from the stable keeper: a horse lasso to catch the animal, and feed to keep it calm once you are holding it. Buy more than you think you need, because the first few attempts almost always fail.

The actual catching process is straightforward, but the details matter:

• Find a wild horse in a spawn map. They wander, so watch the minimap instead of chasing the first one you see.
• Get close, target it, and use the horse lasso. If the catch fails, the horse bolts and you wait for the next spawn.
• Once caught, you are holding a wild horse that will run off if you do not feed it. Use the feed from your inventory right away.
• Keep feeding until the tame bar fills. Move to a quiet channel if other players keep scaring the spawns.
• When taming succeeds, the horse becomes a mount item you can summon, ride, and level.

The biggest beginner mistake is trying to tame during peak hours in a crowded channel. Every player who runs past a wild horse can spook it, and nothing wastes a lasso faster than a spawn that keeps resetting. I do my catching early in the morning or late at night, and I bring at least ten lassos even though the average catch takes three or four.

Taming and Horse Skills

A fresh horse is not just a speed boost. As it levels, it rolls skills, and those skills decide whether your mount is a farming tool, a PVP escape button, or a decorative disappointment. The pool is small, but the rolls are random, so two horses caught on the same day can end up wildly different.

The skills I actually care about, in rough order:

• Sprint - the movement speed skill. This is the reason mounts exist. Never reset a horse that has it unless you have a clearly better replacement.
• Bash - a charge attack that hits on the way in. Handy for farming packs and for catching a fleeing player in PVP.
• Defensive or HP skills - not exciting, but they keep your horse alive in a fight, which saves you revive items and lost time.
• Anything offensive but slow - usually worth dropping, because a mounted damage skill that roots you in place is a liability against real players.

Here is the part that annoys people: you cannot pick your horse's skills. You level it, hope for Sprint, and decide whether the rest is good enough to keep. If a horse rolls Sprint plus Bash, I keep it no matter what else is on there. If it rolls three useless skills, I either reset it or sell it cheap to a newer player and catch another.

Horse Levels and Stats

Horses level up as you ride them and fight from their back. The more time you spend mounted, the faster that bar moves, which is one more reason to stay on the horse while you travel between spawns instead of dismounting constantly. A low-level horse feels sluggish and fragile. A high-level one is noticeably faster and takes real punishment before it goes down.

Level brackets matter more than people admit:

• Early levels - slow, easy to kill, and honestly not much better than running. Use them anyway to build the bar.
• Mid levels - where Sprint starts to feel worth it and the horse survives a few stray hits from mobs.
• High levels - fast enough to change how you farm and travel, and tough enough to survive most accidental pulls.
• Fully leveled - the difference between a casual ride and a genuine movement advantage in PVP.

Do not baby the horse. If you only ride it on safe roads, it will level at a crawl. Take it into your normal farming rotation, let it take some hits, and feed it after. A horse that leveled while you were grinding is a horse that cost you no extra time at all.

Saddle Upgrades

The saddle is the mount's gear slot, and it is where a lot of players leave free stats on the table. A basic saddle is cheap, but upgrading it with saddle scrolls pushes movement speed, HP, or defense higher, and those numbers stack on top of whatever your horse already rolled. This is one of the few upgrade systems in Metin2 that fails safely: a failed saddle upgrade does not destroy the saddle, it just eats the scroll.

How I approach saddles:

• Start with the best saddle you can comfortably afford. Do not skip this slot entirely.
• Upgrade in small batches. Buy a stack of scrolls, upgrade, and stop when the luck turns sour.
• Prioritize movement speed first, then HP or defense, depending on whether you PVP or farm more.
• Keep your old saddle as a backup before you push a new one, so you are never left without a mount.
• Check the player market for pre-upgraded saddles. Sometimes buying one is cheaper than the scrolls to make it.

The math is simple: a fast horse with a decent saddle turns a long walk between spawns into a few seconds. Over a two-hour farming session, that is minutes of pure travel saved, which is effectively free Yang. In PVP, the same speed is how you escape a losing fight or catch someone who thought they got away.

Mount Speed for Farming and PVP

People underestimate mounts until they play without one. On a farming route, speed is not cosmetic, it is throughput. Every second you spend walking is a second you are not killing, and killing is what pays. If your route touches four spawn clusters, a fast mount can mean an extra full rotation per hour, which compounds into millions of Yang over a week.

In PVP the value flips from income to survival. A mounted player decides when a fight starts and when it ends. With Sprint and a good saddle you can disengage from a gank, reposition around terrain, or run down a low-HP target before they reach a safe zone. A slow mount in PVP is basically a target with legs.

A few habits that get the most out of speed:

• Stay mounted while traveling between spawns instead of dismounting at every stop.
• Learn the shortest routes through your farming maps, not just the safest ones.
• In PVP, keep your dismount key ready so you can fight on foot the moment you stop moving.
• Use terrain. A fast horse on an open road is great, but corners and bridges can trap a chasing player.
• Never fight a mounted duel on a slow horse if you can avoid it. Reposition first, then engage.

The honest truth is that mount speed is one of the cheapest large upgrades available to a mid-level character. A good horse plus saddle costs far less than a top-tier weapon, and it improves every part of the game at once.

Feeding, Reviving, and Loss

A horse is a living thing in Metin2, which means it gets hungry and it can die. Feeding keeps it healthy and able to be summoned. If you forget to feed it, you will eventually find a horse that refuses to come out, and that is always at the worst possible moment. I keep a stack of feed in my inventory and top the horse up whenever I stop in town.

Death is the other side of the coin. When your horse takes too much damage, it goes down and cannot be ridden until you revive it. You can bring it back with a horse revive item or by visiting a stable keeper. Until then, you are walking. This is why I never start a PVP session or a boss run without revive items on me. Losing your mount in the middle of a fight turns a close match into a free kill for the other guy.

A short routine keeps mounts alive without much effort:

• Feed in town before you head out, every single time.
• Carry revive items equal to at least one per planned PVP fight.
• Dismount when you know a big AoE or boss mechanic is coming.
• Check the horse before you log off, so you do not come back to a hungry mount.
• Keep a spare tamed horse in your stable if you PVP seriously. Redundancy wins fights.

Resetting Horse Skills

Skill resets are how you fix a horse that rolled badly. If your mount has three useless skills and no Sprint, a reset item gives you another shot at the roll you actually wanted. It is basically gambling, and like all gambling in Metin2, you should set a budget before you start rather than chasing a perfect horse with your entire bank.

My rule is simple: I only reset a horse that is already high level and otherwise good. Resetting a low-level horse is wasted money, because it might still roll badly and you will have spent the item for nothing. I also stop after a few resets. If a horse refuses to give me Sprint after three or four tries, I sell it and catch a fresh one instead. Catching is cheap. Resets are not.

When you do land a good roll, stop immediately. The urge to reset for one more perfect skill is how players turn a great mount into an average one. Sprint plus one useful second skill is a finished project in my book. Everything past that is vanity.

What a Good Mount Costs and How to Fund It Faster

Here is the real cost breakdown, from cheapest to endgame. A basic tamed horse is nearly free if you catch it yourself, but it is slow and fragile. Add a starter saddle and you are into modest Yang. A high-level horse with Sprint, a strong second skill, and an upgraded saddle is a genuinely expensive item, and on a busy server the price climbs fast because everyone wants the same thing.

Rough mental math I use when budgeting:

• Taming supplies: a few lassos and feed, cheap enough that failed attempts barely matter.
• Starter saddle plus a few scrolls: a small but worthwhile early investment.
• A high-level horse with good skills: the biggest single cost, and the one worth saving for.
• Upgraded saddle and reset items: the long tail of spending that most players underestimate.
• Revive items and feed: ongoing upkeep, small per session but real over a month.

The fastest way to close the gap is to fund the whole thing at once instead of farming for weeks. That is where Yang bundles come in. You can compare live options in the shop and pick a server bundle that matches your budget. Every bundle ships with a +2% bonus on the amount and face-to-face delivery in 5-15 minutes, so a real trader meets your character in-game and completes a normal trade. You never hand over your account password.

Popular picks for mount funding:

• Elveron Yang - a solid private PVP bundle for players who want a fast horse and a better saddle quickly.
• Tigerghost Won - the Gameforge-side option if you play there and want to skip the grind.
• Harbi2 Mobile Won - a fixed-price mobile bundle with the same +2% bonus and fast delivery.

If you want to know how payment and delivery actually work, the FAQ covers it end to end. You can also reach a human any time through our contact page, and the about us page explains who is behind the store. Buying Yang is not mandatory, but it is the difference between riding a decent horse this weekend and riding one next month.

That is the whole mount game: catch a horse, feed it, level it while you farm, chase Sprint, upgrade the saddle, and fund the expensive part with Yang instead of grinding for weeks. Do those things in order and your character moves faster, farms harder, and survives fights that used to end in a long walk home.